How To Buy A Tree
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There are two characteristics to consider when assessing tree condition: health and structure. Most health problems are easy to spot; our common sense helps us to steer clear of unhealthy looking trees. Structural defects on the other hand, are easily overlooked. The purpose of this publication is to help you learn to recognize structural defects on young trees and know when a particular tree should be avoided.
The Golden Rule of Tree Buying-Always Select Trees Yourself!
When buying trees, there are four issues to settle: tree species, size, price and condition. You can settle three of them over the telephone (species, size and price). You should assess tree condition with your own eyes.
Inspect the crown:
Be extra careful to inspect for structural defects on large-maturing shade trees like oaks and maples. Young shade trees with structural defects (poor brand attachments, for example), become serious safety hazards as they reach maturity. This is not as much an issue with smaller ornamental trees.
For large-maturing shade trees, beware of trunks that fork low to the ground, tight (V-shaped) branch crotches with the bark rolled inward, and multiple branches arising from one place on the trunk. These are structural weaknesses.
Look at the branches-this is where the leaves (the food factories of the tree) will be. You’re looking for a general covering of small-to-medium size branches. Beware of large branches that are low on the trunk.
Inspect the trunk:
These defects are important to avoid on all trees:
Avoid trees with large bark injuries (deer rubbing, mechanical wounds, etc.). Large bark injuries can develop into cracks and the wood behind these injuries can develop decay.
Avoid trees with sprouts around the base-this is a sign of biological distress and is probably an indication that the tree was planted too deep.
Learn to recognize proper pruning-avoid trees with branch stubs or flush cuts. Improper pruning can cause a number of problems, including “frost cracks,” “sun scald,” excessive sprouting and decay.
Trunk wrap is unnecessary and can hide decays. Some nurseries us a cardboard shield to protect the trunk from injury during handling. Always remove it to inspect the trunk before you accept the tree. It can be reattached for further handling.
Inspecting the roots:
For bailed and burlapped trees, avoid undersized root balls. Trees are sold by caliper (trunk diameter 6” above the ground), or height. The American Association of Nurserymen maintains a set of standards for nurseries selling trees (see table below). You should insist that the root ball meets these specifications.
For container-grown trees, avoid trees with large circling roots. Very gently remove the container to inspect the root system.
For bare-root trees, avoid trees with dried up or mechanically damaged roots.
Standards for Nursery Stock
|
Caliper |
Height |
Root Ball Diameter |
Approx. Weight |
|
1 inch |
5 feet |
at least 16 inches |
100 pounds |
|
1 ¾ inches |
7 feet |
at least 18 inches |
150 pounds |
|
1 ½ inches |
8 feet |
at least 20 inches |
200 pounds |
|
1 ¾ inches |
9 feet |
at least 22 inches |
260 pounds |
|
2 inches |
10 feet |
at least 24 inches |
300 pounds |
|
2 ½ inches |
12 feet |
at least 28 inches |
600 pounds |
|
3 inches |
14 feet |
at least 32 inches |
750 pounds |
|
3 ½ inches |
16 feet |
at least 38 inches |
1350 pounds |
|
4 inches |
18 feet |
at least 42 inches |
1800 pounds |








